Statistics of Extreme Wind Waves
Abstract
This paper describes the results of more than 4,000 long-term (up to thousands of peak-wave periods) numerical simulations of nonlinear gravity surface waves performed for investigation of properties and estimation of statistics of extreme («freak») waves. The method of solution of 2-D potential wave’s equations based on conformal mapping is applied to the simulation of wave behavior assigned by different initial conditions, defined by JONSWAP and Pierson-Moskowitz spectra. It is shown that nonlinear wave evolution sometimes results in appearance of very big waves. There are no predictors for appearance of extreme waves, however, a height of dimensional waves is proportional to a significant wave height. The initial generation of extreme waves can occur simply as a result of group effects, but in some cases the largest wave suddenly starts to grow. It is followed sometimes by a strong concentration of wave energy around a peak vertical. It is taking place throughout several peak wave periods. It happens to an individual wave in a physical space, no energy exchange with surrounding waves taking place. Probability function for steep waves has been constructed. Such a function can be used for development of operational forecast of freak waves based on a standard forecast.
About the Author
D. V. Chalikov
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
St. Petersburg branch
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Review
For citations:
Chalikov D.V. Statistics of Extreme Wind Waves. Fundamental and Applied Hydrophysics. 2009;(3):4-24. (In Russ.)
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